Tag Archive - how to build custom drums

How to Prevent Your Drums From Slipping Out of Tune

lug detuningDo you have problems with your tension rods detuning themselves as you play a gig? I know that I dealt with this for a very long time myself. I would sometimes find myself trying to tune my snare drum back up after a couple of songs because usually the lug nearest to where I hit my rim shots ends up detuning and dropping the drum’s overall  pitch.

This just made me frustrated…until I found out about  Loctite Thread Locker Blue.

loctite thread locker blueLoctite has been great for me for the last couple of years that I’ve used it on my kits. I apply just a small amount to each tension rod on all of my drums. You have to be careful because this stuff can get messy.loctite tension rod

I have also started to put it on all of my hardware screws and lugs screws that attach the hardware and lugs to the shell.  One mistake you definitely don’t want to make though is getting the permanent Loctite thread locker. There are multiple ratings of adhesive-ness (is that even a word?) and you have to make sure you get THREAD LOCKER BLUE REMOVABLE. Continue Reading....

Greg’s first attempt at drum building

This was sent in from Greg Doucette from Canada! That is a great looking drum Greg! This is a Stave snare drum 4.25" x 14" 10 lug. Maple with Padauk accent.

 

Check out what Greg had to say:

"Philip's Ebook on how to make custom drums was instrumental in encouraging me to proceed with my idea of building my own custom drum. I am a hobby woodworker so building the stave shell was less daunting than it might be to some with little experience or lack of tools. As far as all the other process such as marking and drilling  for lugs and other hardware, creating a bearing edge etc., the information on the various processes and recommended tools gave me confidence in my ability to proceed.

The many references to suppliers of various component parts necessary to construct the drum made it easy for me to get a sense of what the project would cost and what I needed to do to get started. This book presents good solid information on innovative ways to construct your own drum building equipment for example sanding and truing the drum edges in preparation for cutting the bearing edge.

I will probably work with a purchased shell next time but the book will continue to be my Bible when it comes to the orderly process of building your own drum."

-Greg Doucette

Just in case anyone was wondering, building stave drum shells is not covered in the book, however just like Greg said, I point you towards many builders who specialize in making beautiful exotic looking stave shells for you! Who knows, maybe you'll be ordering your next stave shell from Greg!

How to pay if you don’t have Paypal

If you want to buy "How to Make Custom Drums" but don't have a Paypal account you can use your credit card or bank account to pay for it. Paypal still takes care of it, and I have nothing to do with processing the account information in case you were worried about that.

pay with creditcard

What Will My Custom Drums Sound Like?

I have received a couple of emails from people that are skeptical about the sound quality of a drum set that they build. I know that this is only my opinion, but I believe that if you follow my steps laid out in the book, (especially when it comes to outsourcing woodwork) you can build the best sounding kit you have ever played on! The moment I played on Kevin’s custom drum set (see orange drum set pictured below) I knew I had to have that sound. Having your drums sound good also has much to do with the drum head selection and how you tune your drums. What I almost always have on my drums are these heads:

Kick Drum – Evans Emad on batter side, with an Evans Emad for the Resonant side
Toms – Clear Remo Emperor on batters, clear Remo Ambassador on resonant
Snare – Remo Coated Ambassador on batter, Remo Hazy Ambassador on the snare side.

As for tuning your drums I’ll be posting more about that later, but make sure you check out this blog post.

Now for the part you really care about. Below are some recordings of the 2nd drum set I ever built. When I built this set, I still knew very little about drum building, but I still had some amazing results:

Custom drums built for StevenI recorded this drum set on the Home Hiccolm & the Rocketboy’s (now they are just called the Rocketboys) “Sing, Bird, Sing” EP. For the record we cut a port hole in the front bass drum head. This kit is (length X diameter) 8×10, 14×14, and 18×20 and sounds incredible. Don’t just take my word, listen to it yourself. Here are some selections from the album recorded at The Glass Jar Studio:

Do I wake or Sleep? By the Rocketboys

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Continue Reading....

Drum Building 101 – How much time and money will I need to invest?

How Much Money Will I Spend Building My Custom Drum Set?

I recently received an email asking how long it would take and how much it would cost to build a 5 piece drum set. Thanks for the question George, hopefully this answers it! The very first drum set I ever built was this: the first custom drum set that I built. A 3 piece drum set (10” tom, 14” tom, and a 20” kick drum) that was stained blue and had gold “bling bling” hardware. I later built a snare drum to match the set but it came out a slightly lighter shade of blue than the other drums (more about that learning experience later). This drum set was my first ever experience with drum building. Before building this I had never worked with wood, I did not consider myself a crafty handyman, and I had never stained anything, unless you count grass and coffee stains! building my first custom drum set A couple of years before building my first drum set I became friends with a guy named Kevin. Kevin owned (and still owns) a recording studio in town. Kevin was the first person to introduce me to the idea of building my own drum set.  He had a custom drum set in his recording studio that sounded amazing. When he told me that he made it with his bare hands I flipped out. When he told me how little he spent to make it I flipped out yet again. He had ordered all the materials for the set, stained it, put a clear coat on it, and assembled it…and HE RECORDS THAT DRUM SET ON 90% OF HIS STUDIO PROJECTS! My first build took about 2 weeks to get supplies shipped to me, 2 weeks to complete it and cost me approximately 0. Continue Reading....

How to Wrap a Drum Shell Part 1

Using a wrap to finish your drum is a great way to get an outstanding finish in very little time. If you are wrapping multiple drums you should find out if your wrap supplier has specific configurations already cut to size for your drums, if not you’ll need to calculate how much wrap you will actually need to buy to be able to cover all your drums. If you are unsure of how to do this, just ask your supplier to help you figure it out. First you will need to cut your wrap to size. An easy way to do this is to wrap it around your drum shell and mark the edge of the shell all the way around. This shows how to wrap a bass drum. If your wrapping a smaller shell follow the directions below as follows, but you’ll just end up with one seam

How to wrap a drum shell

(Some wrap manufacturers don’t make wrap to go all the way around large drums, so you’ll end up having to use 2 pieces for larger drums – mark your cut line around the top of the shell)

2nd peice of wrap for the bass drum

(What your 2nd piece of wrap for larger drums will look like, this will go on the bottom of a 22” kick)

Cutting the wrap down to size

You may use a sharp pair of scissors to cut the wrap. Sparkles are a little easier to cut than glass glitter wraps. Plan on sharpening your scissors frequently if you need to cut a lot of wrap. After you cut your wrap to the length of your shell, you’ll need to cut it down to the diameter of your shell. An easy way to do this is to use a flexible measuring tape (for sewing) to measure all the way around the shell and add an extra inch for overlap. Now lay the wrap down flat and measure out that distance and use a straight edge to mark your next cut. Continue Reading....

Makedrums.com | How To Make Custom Drums

This video shows many of pictures that are included in the book "How to Make Custom Drums" – Over 100 color pictures that visually explain drum building processes! Learn how to build your own custom drums by reading "How to Make Custom Drums"

Drum Building 101 – The Pros and Cons of Tube Lugs

Tube lugs seem to be the lug of choice for most “custom” drum companies and for good reasons – they look great on any drum and are usually made out of solid brass which makes them very durable. There is however some characteristics about tube lugs that could make them difficult to work with for the amateur drum builder. You may have noticed that many lugs have an insert inside the lug that can move around slightly to accept the tension rod. Tube lugs do not have this move-able insert so your drilling must be precise.

slingerland lug copy

TubeLug

Also, when you use tube lugs it is a good idea to grab some extra rubber gaskets or nylon washers/spacers to put in between the lug and the shell. They will come in handy if you install your lugs only to find out that the lug doesn’t have enough lift off of the shell for the tension rod to screw in straight. Example: Continue Reading....

Great Drum Tuning Article

I recently came across a great article about drum tuning technique that I wanted to share. This is a very in-depth explanation of some of the techniques I use to tune my own drums. If you follow Tomas's directions you'll have great sounding drums in no time.

Check it out the full article here – http://www.drummingweb.com/tuning.htm

Here is a very interesting section from the article.

The pitch of the shell

   This will impact the tuning dramatically. Each shell will vibrate at a certain frequency. You can determine that frequency by picking up the shell without heads, holding it loosely, and striking it with a soft mallet (you can also do this with the heads on, striking the shell with your knuckle, but it's harder to hear the tone the shell produces without some practice). When the head is being tuned, try starting at a low pitch and gradually increasing the tension (make sure the head remains tuned to itself during this process). You'll notice that some pitches ring right out, while others seems dead. What's happening is the resonant frequency of your shell (the frequency at which the shell vibrates) will either contribute to the vibration of the head, or else it will cancel it out. It's basic wave physics:

Complimentary Waves


Out of Phase

   The object is to find those pitches where the shell and head will work together within a range. There should be more than one (maybe even three or four), depending on the quality of the shell.

The pitch of the opposing head

   This is very important. Add another wave to the images above, and you get the picture of the complexity a bottom head can bring to the picture. For this reason, some folks just don't use a bottom head. However, the bottom head – if used right – can be an important tool in creating and developing your sound.

   You have three options when it comes to the tuning of the bottom head:

  • The same pitch as the top head.
  • A higher pitch than the top head.
  • A lower pitch than the top head.

   Each of these options produces a different sound. It's important to remember when raising or lowering the pitch of the bottom head relative to the top head that only a slight variance is necessary! If the two heads are too far appart in pitch, they will cancel each other out and the sound will be dead.

The two heads the same pitch

   This will produce a warm, round tone with lots of sustain. "Bong." The attack can be sharp (depending on the tension of the batter head), and the decay will be long, with no variation in pitch as the sound dies. Overtones are usually not affected.

The bottom head lower than the top head

   The decay and sustain are diminished somewhat, the sound is rounder, and the tone deeper – even if the pitch is the same (remember, when you raise or lower the pitch of one head relative to the other, the pitch of the entire drum – when struck while suspended – will either raise or lower. To keep the pitch the same, you will have to change the opposing head in the other direction). The pitch will remain constant through the decay. Overtones are minimized a bit.

The bottom head higher than the top head

   Here's where things get interesting! The effect is similar to bottom head lower in terms of sustain and overall tone, but the pitch of the drum will drop somewhat through the decay! This is how you get that cool "bwow" sound! (There is another way to do this – see Special Effects below). Overtones are minimized a bit.

   Rob Varro, drummer and educator from Ontario Canada, e-mailed me and explained why this happens:

       When you strike the top head of a drum, the air inside the drum is immediately compressed. This causes the bottom head to resonate. The top head, for a fraction of a second, is muted slightly by the stick contact. Therefore the bottom head actually produces a full tone before the top head. So if the bottom head is tuned higher than the top head, you will indeed hear the pitch of the bottom head first, followed closely by that of the top head, giving the effect of a pitch bend or "bwow" (I love that word).

         Thanks, Rob!

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